There is no better feeling than waking up and opening the shutters to be showered in rays of sunshine. Having breakfast on the sea front, just as the air is starting to warm but you still seek something cosy to protect you from the sea breeze. By this point we were also getting used to having a ham sandwich for brekkie, possibly with a slice of tortilla and a mini croissant to satisfy my sweet tooth. What is truly stunning about Mundaka is that you have the sea and port and far out view of the ocean on the one side, and on the other, you are surrounded by vibrant green cliffs and beautiful rich countryside. It’s quite confusing and amazing at the same time.
All we had left to see in Mundaka was the little church up on a cliff facing the ocean, so we had a last stroll around and then decided we should pick a new place to head to. We had previously scrapped Lekeitio from out itinerary, thinking that we would want a full day in Mundaka, but given that it was soon apparent to us that we had seen it all in a couple hours, we decided it was time for some proper beach time.
I’m very happy that we did venture to Lekeitio, a beautiful coastal village, full of interesting architecture and most importantly, a lovely beach. The best part about it was the island that stood a couple hundred metres from the shore: when we first arrived we thought it would be fun to swim there, but as the tide lowered, it uncovered a cute little path that winded all the way down to the little island. So we walked (or slid) there and swam back, feeling immensely refreshed.
One thing I love doing when on holiday, also to save a bit of money, is instead of always going to restaurants for lunch, having a little picnic instead. It gives you the chance to go to the supermarket and get a true feel for local food, try a bit of everything and not spend a fortune. Especially when you can then sit on a beach or a park in the sun, I mean why not!
After having had our fill of food, sun and sea, the ominous clouds also seemed to be telling us that it was time to move on, so we headed to where our main base for the holiday would be: San Sebastián.
I’m fortunate to have one of my good friends back from when I lived in Buenos Aires who now lives in San Sebastián, and she proved to be the most amazing host! On the evening of our arrival she immediately took us to the old quarter (el casco antiguo) for a good night on the town and a taste of this beautiful city.
Here is our culinary (and slightly boozy) tour stop by stop, hand picked by our ‘maestro’ guide Ana, who also happens to be an amazing photographer (you should follow her on Instagram at @analopban). These places are all within a few minutes of each other, located in the old part of the city:
- Some authentic pintxos at Borda Berri (started by the same chef who opened the very popular Cuchara de San Thelmo) – I recommend the risotto with melted local cheese & the ‘kebap’ which is not at all a kebab but rather slow cooked meat that peels off the bone, marinated in some delicious wine and apple sauce
- The best pintxo de foie gras (pincho or pintxo = usually a little slice of bread with something on top, but can literally mean a bite of anything, a small snack) at Bar Sport
- The most exquisite pintxo de chuleta (steak) at Txuleta
I’d like to point out that one usually accompanies each pintxo with a drink, the good thing is that we’re in Spain! Drinks are dirt cheap? A glass of wine varies between €1.30-1.70, a bottle starts from only €6, a beer can often be just €1. Yes, you read that correctly and I did not forget any zeros! My drink of choice for the summer is tinto de verano which, as gross as it may sound, is made by mixing red wine with lemon fanta. I find it delicious and refreshing; the other option is the infamous calimocho which is how most Spanish teenagers start drinking wine: by mixing it with Coca-Cola! Again, you’d be surprised…it’s actually not bad.
We then hit the night scene and ended up dancing dirty to some reggaetón (which I am not ashamed to say I love) until 6am like a proper local.